Holiday in Central Asia (20): around Bukhara in Uzbekistan
At this stage (Day 19), the whole pace of our intensive holiday changed. Instead of crossing into Turkmenistan, we remained in Bukhara for a leisurely day In the area.
First, we drove the short distance out of the city to a place called Sitorai Mohi Hosa. This is popularly known as the Mir’s Summer Palace since it was built by the Russians in 1911 for the last Emir Alim Khan to persuade him to leave the Ark Fortress. There are three main courtyards and these days the buildings are mainly occupied by local art & craft museums. The style of the architecture and furnishings is an odd mix of Russian and Central Asian.
Next we drove further north to the little town of Giyduvon to visit a place called “Farzona” which is a centre for ceramic and weaving crafts set in a large family home that is also a guest house. After the traditional greeting of tea, the owner – 8th generation master Alisher Abdullaev – showed us how the clay is fashioned and the threads are weaved before we had lunch out in the courtyard.
Back in Bukhara, we were given the opportunity of a hour of free time back in the Old City. I chose to find my way to somewhere I had seen on my 2006 trip which had not been covered this time round: the Bolo-Hauz Mosque of 1718, the emir’s official place of worship.
The 39-foot (12 metre) high diwan still stands as one of the highest, most graceful, and most beautifully decorated in Central Asia. A distinguishing feature of the mosque is its 20 pillars. In fact, the building is often referred to as the 40 pillar mosque because of the reflecting pool in front of it, but sadly the water is so low and turgid these days that the effect has to be imagined.
Dinner was in the Old City. Again it was in a restaurant with a wonderful ambience and good food. It was called “Anor” which means pomegranate. Afterwards we had a walk to see the Kalon Minaret beautifully illuminated. At the foot of the minaret, a rock band was just finishing an open-air concert.