Holiday in Cyprus (6): Southern Nicosia

After three days touring the Turkish north of Cyprus, today (Friday) the four of us on the North & South package left behind in Kyrenia the four signed up for the North Only package and started three days in the Greek south of the island. Whereas yesterday we had visited the northern part of the divided capital of Nicosia, today we went over to the southern part of the city with a new guide, a Greek Cypriot called George Economides who has himself visited 95 countries.

It was just half an hour from Kyrenia to Nicosia and, once we were through the checkpoint, our first port of call was the 18th century Greek Orthodox St John The Theologian Cathedral. This looked nondescript from outside and it is only small inside, but the ceilings and walls are emblazoned with paintings and icons and the iconostasis is made of wood with gold leaf, so that the whole effect is quite overpowering. But no photography is allowed. 

Just over the courtyard from the cathedral is the Byzantine Museum. Here more than 300 wonderful icons dating back to the 10th century are well-displayed in a modern (1976) and well-light building. The information in the museum accuses the Turkish army of facilitating the smuggling of artefacts from the occupied territory in the north of the island. Again no photography is allowed. 

After these two visits, we looked at the nearby monument to the 1960 independence of Cyprus and then wandered around the pedestrianised streets of the centre of Nicosia where the shops are much more westernised and upmarket that on the Turkish side of the capital. Although not on the official tour, we looked at the border crossing that we viewed yesterday, but this time from the opposite side, and then we went up to the 11th floor of the Ledna Observation Tower (Ledna was the 1st century name of the city) to view the only divided capital in the world.

Lunch was in the pedestrianised quarter at a place called “Piazza Tavern” where I had a delicious halloumi baguette and we were all given a complimentary glass of schnapps. Finally, we spent over an hour visiting the impressive Cyprus Museum which is full of pottery, jewellery, sculptures, coins and other objects covering all periods of Cypriot culture. The oldest item is a figurine from 9000 BC and there is an army of terracotta figures from the 7th & 6th centuries BC.  At last, we could take photographs.

At this point, we left Nicosia to drive to Limassol which with traffic took almost an hour and a half. Our accommodation is the unoriginally named Mediterranean Beach Hotel. This could not be more different than our hotel in Kyrenia – it is a very large and modern four-star establishment with all the facilities one could want but no character. Dinner at the hotel was part of our package and, although it was only a buffet, the selection was wide and the quality was good.


 




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