Holiday in the Caucasus (4): Absheron Peninsula, Azerbaijan
After two days in Baku, we spent a day in the Absheron Peninsula which stretches north and east from Baku. The name means ‘salty water’. As a change from the city, we visited three very different locations.
First, we went to the village of Mardakan, a name which translates as ‘place of brave people’. Here there is a 24 x 20 metres quadrangular-plan courtyard with a central tower rising to 22 metres. It is believed that the structure was built in 1187-1188, but it has had two 20th century restorations. Recent neglect means that it is unsafe to climb the inside, but we were able to take external steps to the top of the tower. The village has a small 14th century mosque. This is no longer in use for worship but could have a look inside.
Second, we drove to a place called Suraxani which is the location of the 18th century Atashgah fire temple. Apparently, this is one of only three such structures – the others are in Iran and India – which commemorate the ancient religion of Zoroastrianism that flourished from 15th-6th century BC. In Soviet times, the complex was a kerosene factory but, at the time of our visit, there were masses of school children noisily thronging the place as our guide Elvin tried to explain to us the finer points of Zoroastrian beliefs and practices.
Third, we called on a phenomenon called Yanar Dag which translates as ‘fire mountain’. This is certainly an unusual location where methane gas emerges from the earth where it is continuously on fire. But it is rather oversold: there is no mountain but simply a 10-metre long strip of rocks in a raised gully. Some say that the flames have gone unquenched for millennia and our guide was certain that they have been burning for centuries.
Once again, the British trio concluded the day with a late lunch in Baku’s Fountain Square, this time in an establishment called “Cafe City”. We were back at our hotel having been out over seven hours, but it had been an easier day because the temperature was lower (29C) and there was a breeze.