Holiday in Central Asia (8): south side of Lake Issyk-Kok in Kyrgyzstan
Lake Issyk-Kol is over 170 km (105 miles) long and up to 70 km (44 miles) across and lies at an altitude of over 1600 metres (over 5,000 feet). It is not only one of the world’s few remaining ancient lakes, estimated to be 25 million years old, but it is also the second largest alpine lake on the planet.
The name means ‘hot lake’ which comes from a combination of extreme depth, thermal activity, and mild salinity which ensures that the lake never freezes even in the fierce winters. The backdrop in the north is the snow-dappled Ala-Too mountains. The lake runs west-east. The northern shore has shallower beaches and warmer water, but it is much more expensive than the southern shore which is therefore known as “the wild shore”.
Our first full day in the area (Day 7) was spent visiting locations on the south side of the lake. First, we viewed Skazka (Faireytale) Canyon which has red hills of every size and shape. There are high and low walking routes and our group took (part of) the low route (some members of the group have walking difficulties). Then, just south of a village called Jeti-Oguz, we drove into a gorge called Broken Heart and Seven Bulls which indicates the shapes of the mountains to be found there,
From now in, the route was even tougher for our four-wheel drive coach but our driver was not fazed. So we ploughed on up rutted and rock-strewn ‘roads’ twisting and turning to avoid obstacles and crossing the fast-flowing Jeti-Oguz River.
Out destination was a yurt camp located at a height of round 2,000 metres (7,000 feet). Since leaving the hotel, it had taken us four and a half hours to reach the camp with no stops for toilets or coffees. So we were pleased to make use of the camp’s facilities and enjoyed lunch in a yurt with four dumplings as the main course.
Finally our guide Olga – a fit young woman – invited the group to walk back as far at the first of the five bridges which apparently was 4 km (2.5 miles). Only one person actually made it as far as the first bridge and that walk took 70 minutes. Yes, it was me.
On the six previous nights of our Central Asia trip, we have only had one night at that hotel each time. But now we have checked into the Karagat Hotel in the town of Karakol where we will spend all of two nights. Suitcases might actually be unpacked this time and some clothes washing may be attempted.
Dinner was at a popular and lively restaurant called “Dastorkon”. Astonishingly one of the group met an English man who he used to know years ago.