Holiday in Sri Lanka (10): Sigiriya and Polonnaruwa
Friday was the last proper day of the basic tour, since tomorrow Thelma and Andrea start the journey back to the airport and I commence three days alone visiting the Tamil city of Tincomalee.
Although our first destination was only a quarter of an hour’s drive away (past delightful rice fields), we left the hotel at 8 am to avoid the crowds and the heat. Actually this was the one destination in Sri Lanka where there were lots of other tourists (mainly Chinese) and it proved to be the hottest day of our holiday (mid 30sC).
Sigiriya ( Lion Rock) sits atop a giant granite rock rising nearly 660 feet (200 metres) above the surrounding countryside. Although the site is thought to have been occupied for millennia, much was what can be seen there today is attributed to the time of King Kasyapa who killed his father to inherit the throne in 477 AD. The name of the place comes from an enormous entrance built by the King in the form of a lion. The location is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The rock is famous for its climb to the top and the view when one reaches the summit. Apparently there are a total of 1,200 steps and, since the trip to Sigriya was an optional extra at a cost of 9,600 rupees (£48), that made it 8 rupees (or 4 pence) a step. It is not really that difficult a climb since all the stone and metal steps are very even and there are guard rails throughout; it is just not suitable for anyone with breathing difficulties or suffering from vertigo and Thelma and Andrea opted out of the climb and instead spent the time in the museum.
As one makes the climb, the first interesting feature is the so-called Mirror Wall. This was originally coated with a natural concoction of lime, egg white and honey which lent it a brilliant shine. The next thing to view is a set of frescoes in a sheltered gallery in the western rock face. It is estimated that there used to be some 500 but only 21 remain today, dating from the 5th century and depicting bare-breasted celestial nymphs.
A terrace called the Lion Platform on the northern side if the rock marks the start of the final and steepest section of the ascent. At one time, a colossal brick lion guarded the stairway leading to the top of the rock but the lion’s paws are all that remain of the structure. Raskmika left me at this point, so I made the final ascent on my own with other climbers urging each other “Keep moving!” and “Don’t look down!!”
The summit is a substantial area (4 acres) and used to be covered in buildings but only the foundations can be seen today. The views are spectacular and the Chinese tourists especially contrived all sorts of fun poses for photographs. Back at the museum an hour and a half later, I needed a long cool drink.
Our other destination today was another highlight of the cultural triangle: the ruins of the city of Polonnaruwa which was the centrepiece of the Sinhalese kingdom established by KIng Vijayabahu I who ousted the defeated Cholas in 1077. The golden age of the city occurred during the reign of his successor King Parakramabahu I, but the city was finally abandoned in 1293 and was quickly consumed by the jungle. The location is now another UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The ruins are clustered today in various groups spread over a wide area, so we were very pleased to have our air-conditioned minivan to take us around the site. It seemed to be the hottest day of our holiday and it was probably around the mid 30sC with significant humidity so, by the end, we were wilting somewhat.
But we saw some highlights including the museum, the Royal Palace, the Council Chamber, the Royal Baths, and – our favourite – a large stepped pool shaped like the lotus flower plus of course various statues and shrines. By complete contrast with Sigiriya Rock, there were virtually no other tourists anywhere in the area.
Lunch – at a place called “Thidas Arana” – was late (3 pm) and light (as always we declined the buffet and chose from the menu). On the road back to Dambulla, we twice cane across wild elephants wandering in the road (elsewhere in the country yesterday such an elephant had killed two people).
As always, dinner was at our hotel but, since it was my last evening with Thelma and Andrea, I decided to push the boat out by ordering Australian fillet of beet which was excellent.